“The Only Impossible Journey is the One You Never Begin.”
With this thought, we started our road trip to Madhya Pradesh.

With this inspiring thought in mind, we set out on a remarkable road trip to the heart of India, Madhya Pradesh. Join us as we traverse the scenic landscapes, encounter magnificent wildlife, and delve into the historical treasures of Orchha, Kanha National Park, and Bandavgarh National Park and Chambal. Get ready for an unforgettable adventure in the heart of India.

Day 1

On November 19th, 2022, at 5:45 AM, fueled with great enthusiasm, we embarked on our journey to Orchha, Madhya Pradesh, from Delhi. A distance of 495 kilometers lay ahead, a challenge that Google Navigation estimated would demand 9 hours of travel. The timing worked in our favor as it was a Saturday morning, sparing us the usual struggles with Delhi’s weekday traffic.

Remarkably, within just thirty minutes, we breezed past the Barapullah flyover, a route that routinely engulfs more than an hour during peak traffic times. Our optimistic hopes of shaving off half an hour had materialized. Pausing for a tea break at the first eating junction on the Yamuna Expressway, we efficiently spent 20 minutes, thanks to our self-packed breakfast arrangements.

Progressing onto NH44 via the Yamuna Expressway, the roads unfurled before us in excellent condition— smooth and inviting. By 2:00 PM, our expedition led us to the gates of Orchha Medieval Legacy in stone, marking the culmination of our journey’s first leg.

In the small town of Orchha, the Orchha Fort retains its pristine perfection with the Betwa River flowing calmly beside the fort. In the evening, we enjoyed the Sound and Light Show, which provided us with a deep insight into the history of the place. We relished a delectable dinner at Orchha Palace and got some sandwiches packed for the journey the next day.

Day 2-4

On November 20th, 2022, after having tea and a light snack, we set out at 7 am from Orchha to Kanha National Park. Today’s journey required us to cover a distance of 564 KMs, with the GPRS indicating an estimated 11 hours of travel. Once again, we found ourselves on NH with its consistently excellent roads. However, it’s crucial to remember to carry your own food items, as there are no eateries available for stretches of over 200 KMs. With our preparations in place, we savored our breakfast en route at parking bay areas, which took around 20 minutes.

A journey Through Time and Terrain

Upon entering NH-39, we transitioned to a state highway, but unfortunately, these roads were in poor condition, significantly reducing our speed. The road became particularly rough and bumpy 9 kilometers before reaching Kanha Jungle Camp, resembling a roller-coaster ride for us. Despite the challenging road conditions, we managed to reach our destination within 9 hours.

Upon arrival, we were greeted by a group of wildlife enthusiasts, and the atmosphere immediately embraced us with a sense of being in the wild jungle. Our connectivity was limited, with only JIO network functioning, and even the camp’s Wi-Fi coverage was confined to the reception area. Our accommodation for the night was a treehouse, an extraordinary experience of living among the trees. During the night of November 20th, we indulged in stargazing and even witnessed various planets and galaxies under the guidance of Naturalist Mohan.

Wildlife and wilderness

Kanha National Park showcased a breathtakingly beautiful landscape, and over our three-day stay (from November 20th to November 23rd), we enjoyed three safaris. We fondly referred to this experience as our “Call of the Wild” journey.

Kanha features Sal and Bamboo forests, along with rolling grasslands that extend across an expanse of 940 square kilometers. Since 1974, it has been part of the Project Tiger initiative and is regarded as one of the best-administered national parks in Asia. Additionally, to arrange for gypsy safaris, visitors must make reservations in advance through the forest department website. Throughout our journey, we first booked the gypsy safaris and then proceeded to secure our accommodations.

We had three safaris in total: the first on the evening of November 21st (shared), the second on the morning of November 22nd (exclusive), and the third on the evening of November 22nd (exclusive). Each gypsy accommodated only two persons, along with a mandatory driver and forest guide.

Into the Heart of Wilderness

During our first morning safari, the thrill commenced as soon as we entered the park. Our guide identified pug marks of tiger . And as we followed the trail, our excitement mounted as we encountered the tiger (NILANALA), strolling with majestic pride. It was a moment that truly made our day. With Mohan’s extensive knowledge as our guide, we ventured deeper into the undergrowth. As a result, we were blessed to witness NILANALA once again in close proximity. The tiger crossed our path right in front of the gypsy, striking poses that we eagerly captured in photographs. This exhilarating encounter remained etched in our memories.

The safari started at 6 am and ended at 11 am. Meanwhile, at 10 am, they served a satisfying breakfast at a designated spot within the jungle.Each gypsy carried provisions for this purpose. Enjoying breakfast amidst the wilderness after an exciting tiger sighting was a truly delightful experience.

Our three days were brimming with wildlife encounters, including various bird species, Spotted deer, Barasingha, Eagles, and Jackals. With these memories in our hearts, we set our sights on our next destination, Bandhavgarh in Madhya Pradesh.

Day 5

On November 23rd, 2022, we set out from Kanha at 7 am. Enjoying a light breakfast and packing some sustenance for our 264-kilometer journey to Bandhavgarh. According to the navigator, the estimated travel time was 6 hours and 30 minutes. However, we managed to reach our destination in just 4 hours and 30 minutes. We were benefiting from the excellent roads after the initial bumpy stretch. During the journey, we were primarily on a state highway. And network connectivity posed a significant challenge, especially if you were using Airtel as your network provider.

Initial 40 KMs of our journey from Kanha, we relied on a pen and paper approach. We had to note down various landmarks and important points. As the GPS wasn’t functioning due to the lack of network coverage. Similar to our previous travel days, we enjoyed breakfast on the go and took a 20-minute break. By 12:30 PM, we arrived at Kings Lodge by Pugdundee, Safari . And stayed for two nights, from November 23rd to November 25th.

Exploring Bandhavgarh – Tiger Territory Ahead

During our stay in Bandhavgarh, we experienced two exclusive safari sessions, unlike our previous shared experiences with other travelers. These private safaris were already arranged before our journey, scheduled for both the morning and evening of November 24th. The safari timings and breakfast arrangements mirrored what we had encountered in Kanha.

In comparison to Kanha National Park, Bandhavgarh was relatively smaller. The country, often referred to as the White Tiger country, held rich historical significance. Notably, Maharaja Martand Singh captured the last known White Tiger, Tiger Mahun, in 1951. Today, its stuffed remains are on display in the Rewa palace.

Our first safari took place in the buffer zone, where we came across bear footprints and decided to follow them. However, they led us deeper into the forest, resulting in no luck with sightings. Similarly, some pug marks of a tigress also disappeared into the depths of the woods. We did have an encounter with an owl that seemed to be grinning. As if mocking our missed opportunities for sightings that morning.

Tigers , Trees and Tranquility

For our subsequent safari, we headed to the MUKI gate, motivated by the morning’s information of two tigers being spotted. Relying on our guide’s expertise, we understood that a tigress with her cubs tended to stay in one place. We scoured the area in search of this location, but amidst the thickets and expanses of grassland, spotting our elusive subject proved to be a formidable challenge.

An entire hour passed without any signs of movement or the telltale calls of monkeys or deer. We patiently stationed ourselves near a water body within the forest, hoping to at least enjoy the serenity of the sunset. Our attention was captured by a playful group of parrots, and as we aimed the zoom camera to photograph them, a sudden movement in the bushes caught our eye—a tigress emerged.

Patience truly paid off. This 17-month-old tigress, affectionately known as “Dotty ki beti,” growled and put on a captivating show for us. She emerged from the bushes, drank water for about 3 minutes, and held our attention throughout. With this remarkable encounter, we concluded the last safari of our trip on a joyful note. During this safari, we also had the chance to observe deer, jackals and wild boars.

Day 7

On November 25th, 2022, we started our journey from Bandhavgarh to Panna, covering 210 KMs. We started at 7 AM with breakfast packed along with us. The GPS indicated a 5-hour travel time, and we reached in time. Our original plan was to head directly to Khajuraho, but due to the wedding season, bookings were not available. Hence, we booked our stay at Tendu Leaf on Ken River.

From this place, Khajuraho was 22 KMs and a 20-minute drive away. Staying at Panna was better, as we could enjoy the marvel and tranquility of the Ken River. We could also have visited Panna National Park. But that would require an extra day. We reached Tendu Leaf in Panna at 12 PM, enjoying a relaxed drive on fantastic roads. We explored the Ken River, had lunch, and then proceeded to Khajuraho.

The Temple Town

Khajuraho is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Every form and mood of life has been meticulously carved in stone, an eternal expression of love by the Chandela Rajputs. The Western Group of Temples is especially important, with 800 sculptures carved on the interior and exterior of the magnificent temple. Inside, there is a large Shivling. The erotic sculptures are concentrated on the northern and southern facades.

Day 8

On November 26th, 2022, we commenced our journey at 5:30 AM, equipped with a packed breakfast. Our travel plan for the day was extensive, spanning 685 kilometers: from Panna to Chambal (384 km), and then from Chambal back home (301 km), with a 2-hour stop at Chambal for a river safari. The road remained consistently excellent, bordered by lush greenery, and we successfully arrived at Chambal by 12:00 PM. After a refreshing cup of tea, we immediately embarked on the Chambal safari that we had previously arranged. The small boat safari offered a tranquil experience, allowing us to observe numerous crocodiles, alligators, and a diverse array of bird species. Although we caught glimpses of dolphins, luck wasn’t on our side for a closer encounter. The vibrant blue waters of the Chambal River flanked by rugged ravines on one side and lush greens on the other created an unforgettable ambiance.

Departing Chambal at 2:30 PM following a satisfying meal, we set out for our return journey. Upon reaching Delhi at 6:30 PM, we encountered heavy traffic typical of the city, eventually arriving at our home by 8:00 PM. The final day marked our longest drive, yet with a reliable vehicle and well-maintained roads, covering such a considerable distance became a manageable feat.

Our road trip to Madhya Pradesh was an unforgettable journey of discovery, from historical wonders to pristine national parks. The experiences we gained and memories we cherished will forever remain etched in our hearts. If you seek adventure, history, and nature’s marvels, embark on a similar journey to Madhya Pradesh—it’s a trip of a lifetime!